Read on for the September 2006 Crafty Goat customer newsletter, which tells about some great new products and officially introduces this blog...

August Winner Announced

Iris K. of North Bellmore, New York, was the winner of August's monthly drawing at CraftyGoat.com. Iris won a $25 Gift Certificate. Congratulations, Iris!

Don't forget to enter our September drawing for a Black Framed Bead Necklace. Entry deadline is September 30th.

Check Out Our Blog

Crafty Goat's Notes is our new blog -- an online journal where we talk about crafts and crafting. Here's just a sampling of our posts from the past month:

• How to Make Bottle Cap Jewelry with Liquid Clay
• Pasta Machine Magnet Trick
• TLS Image Transfers

If you're interested in making crafts, this is a great blog for you... Come by and check it out sometime!

New at Crafty Goat

In addition to our very geometrical Black Framed Bead Necklace (the sweepstakes prize for this month) and its accompanying earrings, we also went a little crazy for bottle cap jewelry. Here are this month’s new Crafty Goat products:

• Bottle Cap Monogram Necklace
• Yellow Flowers Bottle Cap Necklace
• Metallic Heart Bottle Cap Necklace
• Black Bicone Earrings
• Black Framed Bead Necklace

Close-Out Sale - 55% Off!

Our discontinued items are now 55% off. We want to get rid of these items before the holiday season, so we're offering them for a great price! See all our sale items.

Posted in: CraftyGoat.com News

I've talked about making basic bottle cap jewelry and liquid clay bottle cap jewelry. Now I want to share a few ideas for using polymer clay with bottle caps, by putting the clay either inside OR outside the bottle cap.

Covering the Inside of the Bottle Cap

• How To: Covering the inside of a bottle cap with polymer clay can be pretty simple. These are the steps I took for the Metallic Heart Bottle Cap Necklace:
  
  1. I conditioned white Premo! polymer clay, and rolled it out on the thickest setting of my pasta machine.
  2. Using the bottle cap as a guide, I cut out a small circle to decorate. Note: On my sample, I did a bad job of measuring, so my clay didn't quite go to the edges of the bottle cap. Hopefully you'll measure better than I did!
  3. I used a heart stamp that had been dusted with Pearl Ex powders to press into the clay. I rubbed in a mixture of Pearl Ex powders to color the remaining clay, then I used my paintbrush bristles to texture it.
  4. I put a small dab of Translucent Sculpey (TLS) in the bottom of the cap to serve as a glue. Then I placed my decorated polymer clay circle in the bottle cap and baked it.
• More Ideas: While it can be as simple as this project, covering the inside of a bottle cap with polymer clay can also be as elaborate as you want. I think a collage with polymer clay and some hardware store finds would look good. Or maybe something with a colorful, geometrical 3-D look.

Covering the Outside of the Bottle Cap

• How To: Covering the back side of the bottle cap is also an option. Here are the steps I took for the Bottle Cap Monogram Necklace:
  1. I mixed together several shades of brown Premo! clay until they were marbled, but not yet blended. I used my pasta machine to roll the clay to a medium-thickness sheet (#3 on an Atlas-brand pasta machine).
  2. I reverse-printed the monogram onto card stock using my laser printer, then trimmed the edges so they were more rounded.
  3. I transferred the image onto the clay. I used a paintbrush to spread rubbing alcohol on the back surface of the card stock (I usually do this at least twice, allowing the alcohol to dry between coatings). Once the image had transferred, I removed the card stock.
  4. I used the open end of the bottle cap to punch out a circle around the transfer, then trimmed the edges so it fit the back side of the bottle cap.
  5. After letting the clay sit a while (to prevent the transferred ink from smearing when I touched it), I put a bit of TLS on the bottle cap and put my polymer clay circle on top.
  6. I baked it, then sanded the edges.
• More Ideas:This method also has various possibilities. I've used the back of a bottle cap as the base for a mini polymer clay mask, and I'm sure it could be used as a base for various other structures.
  
  Something I've wondered about when decorating the back of the bottle cap, though, is whether the sharp-looking edges of the cap would be comfortable against the skin. My skin is a little sensitive, so I don't think I would want to wear a necklace that pressed metal edges against me. Other people are selling things like this, so there may be a solution. I think I'll try dipping the bottom edges in some liquid clay to give it a clear plastic coating -- that might do the trick without affecting the look. Or if you've got a good answer for this, let me know.

These are just a few ideas for using polymer clay with bottle caps... I'm sure there's a ton more that can be done. I'd love to see what you come up with!

Posted in: Polymer Clay , Project Instructions

In my previous post, I talked about the basics of making bottle cap jewelry. Now I'd like to tell you how to make jewelry using liquid polymer clay:

1. Find or print an image. Just as with the paper collage bottle caps, you'll want to cut the paper a bit larger than the bottom of the bottle cap. Do any coloring or stamping on your paper image now -- before you put it in the bottle cap.
2. Use alcohol inks to tint your liquid clay. Be careful -- one drop goes a long way!
3. Use a paintbrush to spread a thin layer of liquid clay in the bottom of the bottle cap. Now smooth the paper image down inside the cap and paint a layer of liquid clay on top of it. Be sure to get liquid clay around the edges to smooth those down.
4. Bake at 275° for 15 minutes.
5. Add another thin layer of liquid clay and bake again. Repeat if necessary to get the right "look" for your project.
6. You're done! Add a jump ring, attach it to a necklace, and just wait for the compliments to come pouring in!

Just a couple of notes:

• I was using recycled bottle caps, and was initially a little worried that the little clear seal inside the lid might not be oven-safe. I didn't notice any fumes or burning when I baked my bottle caps, but if you're worried about it, just buy some new caps that don't have the seal.
• If you want to get rid of the paper, you can do an image transfer to the liquid clay. But if you do that, you may want to add a layer of light-colored clay to the bottom of the bottle cap to make the transfer more visible.
• I used Kato's Clear Medium Liquid PolyClay for mine, but Translucent Liquid Sculpey (TLS) would also work. It would result in a little cloudier image, but that might be just what you need for your project.
• Craft stores sell paint containers that are just like the paint-by-numbers sets from when I was a kid. These are great for mixing and storing tinted liquid clay.

In my next post, I'll share a couple of other ideas for using polymer clay with bottle caps. But if you can't wait that long -- or if you prefer shopping to crafting -- then take a look at CraftyGoat.com. The Yellow Flowers Bottle Cap Necklace and a couple of other bottle cap necklaces are now available.

Posted in: Polymer Clay , Project Instructions | Comments (6) | TrackBacks (1)

Our library system has some of the best classes! Last night I went to a Bottle Cap Creations class taught by local artist Kiona Millirons, where the library provided us not only with free instruction — but also free bottle caps and all the free supplies we needed to make a belt, bracelet, pin, pair of earrings — or whatever. How cool is that?

I decided to make a couple of magnets (the blue ones in the picture) and a couple of pins (the "Art" and "Crafts" collages). They were fun and very easy to make. Here are the basics:

1. Get a bottle cap. Used caps works for many projects, or you can get new ones from bottling shops, eBay, Hobby Lobby, etc.
2. Use a hammer and nail to (carefully) punch any holes necessary for your project. For necklaces and earrings, you'll want a tiny hole for a jump ring near the top. For belts or bracelets, you'll want a larger rivet-sized hole in the middle.
3. If you want a flattened, framed look (like my blue ones), you'll need to hammer the edges flat. It's easiest to start with a cap where the edges are already flared out. Put the bottle cap, open side down, on a flat surface and use a hammer to pound around the top. Once you've sufficiently smashed the cap, you'll end up with a cool framed edge. Update: See comments for cap-flattening clarification.
4. Use scrapbook paper or some old magazines for images. A great tip Kiona shared with us is to use a template (see picture) to figure out exactly how much of an image will fit in your bottle cap. Make your own template with card stock, making the circle hole just a little larger than the bottom of the bottle cap (my bottle caps were approximately 1"). Then hold the template up against various parts of the image as you decide what will look best. You might be surprised! You can also use the card-stock template to trace your images for cutting — or if you've got one of those handy-dandy circle punches, they work great too. Just cut the paper a little larger than the bottom of the cap, so that the paper comes up around the edges a bit.
5. Using Mod Podge (or another decoupage glue) and a paintbrush, spread a layer of glue in the open area of the bottle cap. Add the paper and decoupage that down too.
6. Now get creative. Make a mini-collage. Add some embellishments. Come up with something strange and interesting.
7. When you're finished adding everything, you can put another layer of Mod Podge on top. Or you can use a dimensional adhesive like Ranger's Glossy Accents if you've added bulkier items to your collage. Just be sure to use a glue that dries clear.
8. Hot glue a magnet or pin finding to the back, or attach a jump ring to your pre-drilled hole if you're making a necklace or earrings. Wear with pride!

My collages use scrapbook paper (the little cut-out flowers were a design on the paper), beads, and eyelets. I tried rubber-stamping the letter "A" onto the "Art" bottle cap collage before I added the matted flower. But the cap bottom isn't a flat enough surface for stamping, so I couldn't get an even impression. Maybe stamping the paper before putting it in the bottle cap would have worked — though I'm not sure which ink to use to make sure the glue doesn't cause smearing.

I had a lot of fun making these... but the wheels in my mind started turning. I wonder what I could do with bottle caps and polymer clay.

Well, stay tuned & I'll tell you!

Posted in: Paper Crafts , Project Instructions | Comments (25) | TrackBacks (2)

Yesterday I took a Polymer Clay Artist Trading Cards (ATC) class at and Bear Makes 3, a rubber stamp store in Moore, Oklahoma. Our teacher was Deena Parsons, and she was quite a hoot — she made sure everyone had an enjoyable time. We learned the Sutton Slice technique, which I used on my first ATC (on the left). We also did image transfers, which I used for my second ATC (on the right).

I hadn't tried the Sutton Slice technique before, so I was grateful for a chance to try it out. I had a little trouble with my clay sticking in the stamp, but I think spraying the stamp first with water (as the HGTV tutorial recommends) might have helped with that. I was still pleased with the results.

This was also my first time to make Artist Trading Cards. (Read more about ATCs here). They were easy and fun to make, so I'm kinda thinking now I may try some at home. I may even try a swap or two. And while I'm not crazy about the finished cards — I just don't think they're my style — I'm still glad I took the class. I didn't have my normal set of polymer clay supplies, so I didn't do the things I normally do — the things I'm comfortable doing. But getting out of a comfort zone & trying new things is something we should all do more often... as artists and as people.

Of course, it helped that instead of my normal tools I had all sorts of cool tools to play with. Deena had some leather-working tools, which is something I've often thought about getting. After playing with the leather tools, I think I will buy a couple. They work great with clay and will be perfect for impressions in faux leather. Deena also had cute little paper flowers that I hadn't used before, and a great collection of watch faces that I just loved.

And best of all? She took everything — all the stamps, tools, and embellishments — and spread them out over a big table so we could see the goodies. I've noticed before how much more fun it is to see all your materials spread out and pick from amongst them, than to try to work from memory of what's in your drawer or closet. I just finished cleaning up my craft room, so I'm not sure this is a lesson I want to apply at home. But it's fun when it's someone else's mess to clean up afterwards!

Overall, I was impressed with the store and its classroom area. The room was spacious and comfortable. The atmosphere was casual and supportive. They even had a stocked fridge you could pay to get drinks from. And the store? Well, let's just say if I didn't live 40+ minutes away, it would quickly become a favorite. It's got all those wonderful things I get frustrated trying to find at the larger craft stores. ("What do you mean, Hobby Lobby doesn't carry stamp positioners?") So if you're in this area, I definitely recommend the and Bear Makes 3 store and classes.

Anybody got any polymer clay ATC's you want to trade?

Posted in: Polymer Clay | Comments (2)

Polymer Clay Daily posted this magnet trick -- it looks like a nifty way to keep the handle from falling out of the pasta machine. I can't think of how many things I've tried to fix this problem, so I'm hoping this will do the job. My poor little dog insists on laying right underneath the pasta machine whenever I'm in the craft room -- and we've had quite a few near misses when the handle has fallen out!

UPDATE 11/6/06: I finally remembered to pick up some super-magnets and give this a try. They didn't specify which brand of pasta machine they tried this on -- but I didn't have much luck using it with my Atlas pasta machine. Since the long hollow tube that my handle fits in is much longer than the handle, I'm guessing the magnet doesn't have anything to grab onto. Two of the comments on the original post looked promising, though: wrapping the end with masking tape, or inserting the end into the cut-off finger of a latex glove. I'll let you know if either of those work better for me...

Posted in: Polymer Clay , Supplies & Tools

According to the Clay Factory's Blog, several colors will no longer be available in Premo! Sculpey's 1-lb size:

Glow in the Dark - Zinc Yellow -  Fluorescent Yellow -  Alizarin Crimson - Fluorescent Red - Fluorescent Pink - Fuchsia - Copper - Red Pearl - Blue Pearl - Sea Green - Orange - Fluorescent Green - Green Pearl - Turquoise - Violet - Raw Sienna

The colors aren't being discontinued -- they just won't be available in this size anymore. But if you regularly buy any of these colors in this size, you may want to stock up now.

Posted in: Polymer Clay , Supplies & Tools | Comments (2)

Just to summarize, here are the things I learned during my recent experiments with Translucent Liquid Sculpey (TLS) and Kato Polyclay Clear Medium transfers.

• Different paper types make a big difference in the ease of separating the TLS transfer from the paper after baking. Hammermill Fore MP ivory 20 lb. paper and the medium-weight Hammermill Color Copy Paper in Photo White were the best ones that I tried. I personally liked the ivory colored paper because the remaining cream-tinted paper fibers didn't seem to stand out as much as the bright white fibers, but you might experiment to see what works best for you with a particular project.
• Paper type is apparently also very important in the success of the Kato Polyclay transfers. I say this only because I didn't get much of a transfer with the paper I tried.
• I had some problems with the black ink smearing as I spread the TLS onto the printed image. This was less of a problem when I didn't try to spread it too thin.
• I found the heat gun method much easier and quicker than the oven method for both the TLS and Kato Polyclay -- primarily because I didn't have to soak the paper to remove it. However, the transfer using the heat gun method was not as dark for either product.
• I don't think I mentioned this, but if you're soaking the paper to remove it from the transfer after baking, it helps to be patient! I found it much easier to remove the paper if it had been soaking at least an hour. Also, don't get too rough as you rub and peel the paper bits -- it's pretty easy to tear TLS transfers.
• The Kato Polyclay clear medium was much clearer, and it didn't stick to the paper after baking as much as the TLS did. Granted, I didn't get much of an image transfer -- but surely I can get past that minor hurdle... :-)

If you're interested in learning more about image transfers, here are some excellent online resources:

• Polymer Clay Cyclopedia Transfer Variables: This page is geared towards normal polymer clay transfers, but it gives a good list of variables to consider -- things like age of the printed image, temperature of the clay, etc.
• Glass Attic Transfers: Check out the "LIQUID CLAYS" section for a lot of information on liquid clay transfers. I'm sure I'll be using the comments about different paper types when I try my Kato transfers.
• Cloud 9 Translucent Liquid Sculpey Tips and Techniques: Tyra recommends the glass method for baking the transfers. I tried it, but had essentially the same results and problems as with the other methods (the paper wasn't any easier to remove). Still, there might be some situation where this method might work better...

Overall, I can't say that my experiment with liquid clay image transfers was an overwhelming success. I did learn a lot, and I've got some things I'd still like to try. Specifically, I want to experiment with the Kato Polyclay using various other paper types and an ink-jet printer. (I'll post the results whenever I do try this.)

But for the time being, I'm just not sure these transfers are worth the trouble. Printing or copying onto vellum is far easier and gives better results, if all I'm looking for is an image on a transparent background. Transferring straight to the polymer clay (maybe even translucent clay) is easier if I want something more durable than paper. I really haven't thought of any advantages the TLS transfers have over one of these other methods. I'd be interested in hearing what other folks think about this.

I'd also love to hear from you if you've got a special TLS image transfer tip that really worked for you. Or if you've got an example of some artwork that includes an image transfer, that's even better!

Previous posts in this series include:

• Translucent Clay Image Transfers, Part 1
• TLS Image Transfers, Part 2
• TLS Image Transfers, Part 3

Posted in: Polymer Clay | Comments (2)

I had just bought the Kato Polyclay Clear Medium & hadn't tried it yet, so I decided to follow their instructions exactly for my first image transfer attempt. I excitedly pulled out the pamphlet and started looking at their directions, feeling optimistic that this just might do the trick.

My heart sank a little when I read these words: "ink-jet printed image"

Surely they don't mean ink-jet printers are the only ones this will work for? I've been waiting all my polymer clay life for the day I'd have easy access to a laser printer for projects, and now that I only have a laser printer, they want an ink-jet...?

I decided maybe they just wrote that because they felt like everyone would assume they were supposed to print to laser printers, like with every other polymer clay transfer project. So I carried on, following the rest of the instructions from Kato Liquid Polyclay's product pamphlet:

• Make an inkjet copy of the image, then trim to leave a small border around the actual image.
• Place transfer image on parchment paper. Paint a thin smooth layer of Kato Liquid Polyclay on the image, extending it to the edge of the paper.
• Holding a heat gun about 1" from the paper, cure the transfer until it is shiny and clear. After cooling, repeat the painting and curing 2 more times.
• Heat the back of the image, through the parchment paper, for about 2 minutes. While still warm, cut away the border. Then carefully peel the transferred image away from the paper.

What do you know? My laser printed image didn't work at all... so maybe they meant that part about the ink-jet printer! There was a faint yellow image -- I'm guessing this is because the laser printer does multiple passes, printing one color, then the next, then the next. Yellow must be the top color that's printed on this printer, so that's the only color that got transferred.

Other than the small detail where not much actually transferred, the transfer seemed pretty promising. Very little, if any, paper reside. And it was very clear. The finish itself seems more glossy than the TLS.

So there was a slight delay in my experiment while I waited for an opportunity to use an ink-jet printer. These aren't easy to find -- copy shops, offices, libraries & the like all tend to have lasers. Fortunately we ended up visiting my in-law's house, and they were more than happy to let me use their ink-jet.

Happy to have the project back on track, I tried the ink-jet transfers almost as soon as we got home. I followed the same steps as above... and I ended up with even worse results than above! There were a few very faint black lines -- but that was all that transferred.

I also tried following the other method Kato recommended in their pamphlet -- which is painting the clear medium on the image and baking it in the oven, then cooling and repeating before soaking the transfer in water to separate the paper from the transfer. Separating the paper from the transfer proved to be much easier for Kato's Liquid Polyclay than for Sculpey's TLS. And the transfer medium itself was even clearer with this method -- I'm guessing because it was 2 layers instead of 3. But the results were still bad. I had slightly darker black outlines this time (you could even imagine that the outline might be a goat!), but no color.

One thing that could have affected my results was that I printed the images on Kodak Glossy Inkjet Paper because it was the photo-quality paper we had on hand -- but it's not one of the ones the Kato brochure recommended. They recommend the following:

• Epson Photo Quality Ink Jet Paper (Matte)
• Great White Imaging & Photo Paper
• Canon High Resolution Paper
• Epson Photo Paper (Glossy)
• Kinko's Coated Color Copier Paper
• Office Max Gloss Photo Paper

Since I don't currently have easy access to an ink-jet, I'm not going to experiment with the other papers right now... but if you have, I'd love to hear your comments.

Stay tuned for a wrap-up of what I've learned in my liquid clay transfer experiments.

Other posts in this series include:

• Translucent Clay Image Transfers, Part 1
• TLS Image Transfers, Part 2
• TLS Image Transfers, Wrap-Up

Posted in: Polymer Clay | Comments (2)